Centella asiatica and the cica triterpenes

The plant and its markers

Centella asiatica is a wetland herb with a long history in traditional wound care. Its activity is attributed to four triterpenes: the glycosides madecassoside and asiaticoside, and their corresponding aglycones madecassic acid and asiatic acid. Extracts are standardised to these markers, and "cica" as a category name derives from Centella.

What the triterpenes do

The best-supported effects are on wound healing and inflammation. Asiaticoside has been shown to influence collagen synthesis and fibroblast activity, with TGF-beta signalling implicated. Madecassoside has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity and some collagen I evidence. Clinically this translates into a soothing, barrier-supporting profile rather than a resurfacing or pigment-directed one, which is why cica products are positioned for sensitised, compromised or post-procedure skin.

Concentrations, stated honestly

This is the point at which a reference page has to be careful. In the Youlief range the Centella extract itself is present at up to 0.00751% (75 ppm), while the individual marker triterpenes are listed at 3 ppm (madecassoside), 2 ppm (asiaticoside) and 0.2 ppm each (asiatic and madecassic acid).

Those triterpene figures are almost certainly the marker content of the extract rather than separate additions - which is normal and not deceptive. But it does mean the honest claim rests on the extract at 75 ppm, and that is a low inclusion. Published work on Centella extracts in skin generally uses considerably more.

By contrast, Vegalab's Hyaluronic Skin Repair states Centella asiatica at 38.7%, which is an entirely different proposition and a genuine differentiator. The same ingredient name across two products can mean two completely different things, and that is exactly what a reference page should make visible.

What does centella asiatica and the cica triterpenes not do?

Centella is not an anti-aging active in the retinoid sense, not a pigmentation treatment, and not a substitute for clinical care of a damaged barrier or an inflammatory skin condition.