Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5)

What is panthenol?

Panthenol is the alcohol analogue of pantothenic acid, vitamin B5. It is converted to pantothenic acid in skin, which is a precursor of coenzyme A and therefore involved in lipid synthesis - the mechanistic basis for its barrier effects. It is used as D-panthenol (dexpanthenol), the biologically active enantiomer, or as a racemic mixture.

What it does

Three things, all reasonably supported. It is a humectant, holding water in the stratum corneum. It supports barrier lipid synthesis via the coenzyme A pathway, with measurable effects on transepidermal water loss. And it has anti-inflammatory and wound-healing activity, which is why dexpanthenol is used in medical topical preparations for minor wounds and irritated skin.

That combination - hydration, barrier and soothing, with a plausible mechanism for each - makes it one of the more reliable ingredients in cosmetic use.

Levels

Cosmetic use typically runs 0.5% to 5%, with medical preparations higher. Youlief uses it at up to 0.075% across five products, which is below the range at which the barrier and wound-healing work was done - a supporting rather than a starring role. Vegalab uses it in the Scalp Repair NanoSerum, Bio-Ferment toner and Soothing Recovery Gel.

What does panthenol not do?

It is not an anti-aging active, not a pigmentation active and not an exfoliant. Its virtue is reliability in a supporting role, not dramatic effect.

Is panthenol safe?

Very well tolerated, including on compromised skin, with a low sensitisation rate. One of the safer choices for reactive skin.