Panthenol for skin and hair
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Panthenol is pro-vitamin B5, the alcohol analog of pantothenic acid, and skin converts it to pantothenic acid, a precursor of coenzyme A involved in lipid synthesis. It does three reasonably supported things: it holds water in the stratum corneum, supports barrier lipid synthesis with measurable effects on water loss, and has anti-inflammatory, soothing activity. Cosmetic use typically runs 0.5% to 5%.
What is panthenol?
Panthenol is the alcohol analogue of pantothenic acid, vitamin B5. It is converted to pantothenic acid in skin, which is a precursor of coenzyme A and therefore involved in lipid synthesis - the mechanistic basis for its barrier effects. It is used as D-panthenol (dexpanthenol), the biologically active enantiomer, or as a racemic mixture.
What does panthenol do for skin?
Three things, all reasonably supported. It is a humectant, holding water in the stratum corneum. It supports barrier lipid synthesis via the coenzyme A pathway, with measurable effects on transepidermal water loss. And it has anti-inflammatory and wound-healing activity, which is why dexpanthenol is used in medical topical preparations for minor wounds and irritated skin.
That combination - hydration, barrier and soothing, with a plausible mechanism for each - makes it one of the more reliable ingredients in cosmetic use.
How much panthenol do cosmetics use?
Cosmetic use typically runs 0.5% to 5%, with medical preparations higher. Youlief uses it at up to 0.075% across five products, which is below the range at which the barrier and wound-healing work was done - a supporting rather than a starring role. Vegalab uses it in the Scalp Repair NanoSerum, Bio-Ferment toner and Soothing Recovery Gel.
What does panthenol not do?
It is not an anti-aging active, not a pigmentation active and not an exfoliant. Its virtue is reliability in a supporting role, not dramatic effect.
Is panthenol safe?
Very well tolerated, including on compromised skin, with a low sensitization rate. One of the safer choices for reactive skin.
Key takeaways
- Panthenol is converted in skin to pantothenic acid, vitamin B5.
- It is a humectant, a barrier lipid support and a soothing ingredient, with a plausible mechanism for each.
- D-panthenol (dexpanthenol) is the biologically active form.
- Cosmetic use typically runs 0.5% to 5%, with medical preparations higher.
- It is very well tolerated, including on compromised skin, with a low sensitization rate.
References
The studies below describe the ingredient itself. Finished-product results appear in each product's evidence dossier.
Frequently asked questions
Is panthenol the same as vitamin B5?
Panthenol is the alcohol analog of pantothenic acid, which is vitamin B5. Skin converts panthenol to pantothenic acid, which is why it is called pro-vitamin B5.
What is the difference between D-panthenol and panthenol?
D-panthenol, also called dexpanthenol, is the biologically active enantiomer. Panthenol is also used as a racemic mixture of both forms.
Is panthenol an anti-aging ingredient?
No. Panthenol is not an anti-aging active, a pigmentation active or an exfoliant. Its value is reliability in a supporting role for hydration, barrier and soothing.
More in ingredients
Products containing panthenol
Listed because this ingredient appears in each product's declared composition. This is a commercial link from a reference page; it is not a recommendation, and approved uses and availability vary by market.