Squalane

What is squalane?

Squalene, with an e, is a naturally occurring hydrocarbon and a significant component of human sebum. It is also unstable, oxidising readily - and oxidised squalene is implicated in comedogenesis and inflammation. Squalane, with an a, is the hydrogenated form: fully saturated, therefore stable, and with essentially the same emollient behaviour. Cosmetic use is always squalane.

Sources, which matter to readers

Historically squalane came from shark liver oil, which is why the ingredient still carries reputational baggage. Most cosmetic squalane today is plant-derived, usually from olive or from sugarcane by fermentation. The molecule is identical regardless of source; only the sourcing ethics differ, and a product that does not state its source invites the question.

What it does

It is an emollient and occlusive that reduces water loss while feeling notably light, because it is close in structure to skin's own lipids and spreads similarly. It is non-comedogenic in normal use, which distinguishes it from many richer oils, and it improves the spreadability and skin feel of formulations.

Levels

Vegalab uses it in the Aqua Infusion Mist. Youlief uses it at 4% in the Peptiderma cream - a substantial, functional level, and one of the ingredients in that product most likely responsible for its actual performance, given how low the peptides are.

What does squalane not do?

It is not an active. It does not treat pigmentation, wrinkles or acne, and it does not replace barrier lipids in the ceramide sense - it sits on top rather than integrating into the lamellar structure. Its virtue is doing an unglamorous job very well.