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Beauty Science · What Doesn't Work

Are silicones bad for skin and hair?

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Not for skin. In a study comparing silicones with petrolatum, transepidermal water loss under the silicone film was not significantly different from untreated skin, because the film lets water vapor through. Common cosmetic silicones such as dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane sit on the surface, wash off with ordinary cleansing and have no established comedogenic mechanism. The real debate about some cyclic silicones is environmental.

MYTHmeasured water loss under silicone was no different from bare skin

What do people believe about silicones?

Silicones form an occlusive film that traps debris, clogs pores and prevents skin from breathing.

What does the evidence show?

A study in Skin Pharmacology and Physiology compared silicones directly against petrolatum. Petrolatum formed a genuinely occlusive layer that raised hydration for more than four hours. The silicone excipients' transepidermal water loss values were not significantly different from untreated control skin.

That is the whole claim answered. Silicone polymers form a film with a molecular structure that permits water vapor through - they are described in the paper's title as nonocclusive topical agents. If water vapor passes, the "suffocation" premise fails, and skin does not respire through its surface in any case; the epidermis is supplied by the dermal circulation.

The pore-clogging claim also runs into a size problem. Common cosmetic silicones such as dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane are large molecules that sit on the surface and are removed by ordinary cleansing. There is no established comedogenic mechanism, and the ingredients are among the better-tolerated materials in cosmetic use, with very low sensitization rates.

Where does a real concern about silicones exist?

Not skin, but environment. Some cyclic silicones - notably D4, D5 and D6 - have been the subject of environmental persistence and bioaccumulation assessment and regulatory restriction in some jurisdictions. That is a legitimate reason someone might choose to avoid them, and it is a completely different argument from the skin-health one. Making the environmental case accurately is stronger than making the suffocation case inaccurately.

What works instead?

If silicones suit your skin, use them; they are excellent at what they do, which is sensory feel, film-forming and reducing the appearance of texture. If you want to avoid them for environmental reasons, do so on those grounds.

Key takeaways

  • Water loss through skin under silicone was not significantly different from untreated control skin.
  • Petrolatum, not silicone, formed a genuinely occlusive layer in the same study.
  • Dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane are large molecules that sit on the surface and are removed by ordinary cleansing.
  • Cosmetic silicones have very low sensitization rates.
  • Cyclic silicones D4, D5 and D6 face environmental persistence assessment and restriction in some jurisdictions.

References

  1. Silicones as Nonocclusive Topical AgentsDe Paepe K, Sieg A, Le Meur M, Rogiers V · Skin Pharmacology and Physiology · 27(3):164-171, 2014 · DOI 10.1159/000354914 · Industry-funded — two co-authors at Dow Corning Europe
  2. A re-evaluation of the comedogenicity conceptDraelos ZD, DiNardo JC · Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology · 54(3):507-512, 2006 · DOI 10.1016/j.jaad.2005.11.1058 · Funding not determined
  3. Safety Assessment of Cyclomethicone, Cyclotetrasiloxane, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, and CycloheptasiloxaneJohnson W Jr et al. · International Journal of Toxicology · 30(6 Suppl):149S-227S, 2011 · DOI 10.1177/1091581811428184 · Industry-funded — the Cosmetic Ingredient Review is funded by the Personal Care Products Council
  4. Commission Regulation (EU) 2018/35 amending Annex XVII to Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 (REACH) as regards octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5)European Commission · Regulation (EU) 2018/35 of 10 January 2018 · Institutional publication — no DOI issued · Independent
Product claims, registrations and availability vary by jurisdiction. Always read and follow the applicable product label.

Frequently asked questions

Do silicones stop skin from breathing?

No. Silicone polymers form a film that permits water vapor through, which is why researchers describe them as nonocclusive. Skin does not respire through its surface in any case; the epidermis is supplied by the dermal circulation.

Do silicones clog pores?

There is no established comedogenic mechanism. Common cosmetic silicones are large molecules that sit on the skin surface and are removed by ordinary cleansing, and they are among the better-tolerated materials in cosmetic use.

Why are silicones used in skincare?

They are excellent at sensory feel, film-forming and reducing the appearance of texture. If they suit your skin, there is no skin-health reason to avoid them.

Is there any reason to avoid silicones?

The legitimate concern is environmental. Some cyclic silicones, notably D4, D5 and D6, have been assessed for environmental persistence and bioaccumulation, and the EU restricted D4 and D5 under REACH Regulation (EU) 2018/35. That is a separate argument from skin health.

Products

No direct product mapping. This page examines a claim rather than a single ingredient, so no product maps to it directly.